Patricia Brown’s kitchen was the heart of the family business: Her four sons would meet there and discuss business over morning tea. Grandaughter Eliza Brown recollects that her cooking was “prepared with two cups of selflessness, one cup of love and a pinch of humour. This family recipe is perfect for you to make at home.
In a bowl, mix 100g of butter and lemon zest
together, then set aside. This mixture will be
stirred into the risotto at the end.
Pour the vegetable stock into a large
saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce
In a separate saucepan, heat 50g of
butter and olive oil over a medium heat.
Add the onions, garlic and sweat down
slowly without colouring.
Turn the heat up to high and add the rice.
Stir well, coating the rice with the onions
and butter. The rice will begin to lightly fry;
continue to stir for about 1 minute. Add the
wine, bring to the boil and then reduce for
Add the first few ladles of stock to the rice
and stir. Reduce the heat slightly so that
the rice is simmering, but not boiling too
hard. Stir frequently, adding stock as you
go – one ladle at a time – so that it doesn’t
dry out, but not too much so that you drown
it. After 11 minutes, begin to check the rice.
It should be soft, but still have a little bite
in the centre. If it is not cooked, add small
amounts of stock until it is. If you run out of
stock use hot water.
Once the rice is cooked, add the peas and
remove from the heat. Add the lemon butter
and stir into the risotto vigorously. This
method, known as mantecatura in Italian,
will emulsify the starch from the rice with the
butter giving you a firm, yet creamy risotto.
Add the smoked trout and carefully mix
through so as to not break it up too much.
Garnish with the snow pea tendrils and